Weekend in Dalmatia and Herzegovina

Weekend in Dalmatia and Herzegovina

Suitcases were begging us to pack them again and so we grabbed our stuff and turned the car key.

Since it only takes five hours to drive to Split, we chose this Dalmatian pearl to be our weekend destination. Of course I planned the whole journey in advance and booked our accommodation online. I wanted a quiet neighborhood for sleep, somewhere along the beach, and the small settlement Podstrana, 10 km away from Split, met my requirements.

This year Croatia surpasses Turkey, Greece and Spain with prices. The accommodation for two cost us 70 euro, including bed and breakfast, which is quite expensive for a private pension, but I cannot complain about the quality of service. The room was spacious and clean, with a large terrace, palm trees and a pretty garden with direct access to the beach. Breakfast was plentiful, served in the garden, and all guests were allowed to use free deck chairs.

We spent Saturday morning swimming in the sea and absorbing vitamin D and in the afternoon we decided to walk the streets of Split’s waterfront. We could not decide whether to go to Split by public transport or by car. After we were told that  a one way ticket from Podstrana costs 18 HRK (EUR 2.3) per person, we realized that it is profitable to launch our golf. In the city center there is not much parking space and we found one in the ferry port, 10 HRK (1.3 EUR)/h. The city of Diocletian, in its full glory, was filled with tourists from all over the world.

We knew from experience that prices in restaurants are high and the portions are far less than those we are used to in Bosnia and Serbia, so we had fast food for lunch. Fresh fruit salad which is sold at street stand satisfied my hunger and after that we raised our sugar levels in the candy store. :)

The rest of the evening was devoted to a tour to Trogir, 30 km away from Split, westerly along the coast. Only 5-6 km along the way we stopped in the column and patiently waited for more than hour, but as we found out that there was a serious traffic accident, we turned the car back. It was late and we had to get up early to continue the journey. If you find yourself in the vicinity, you definitely should not miss seeing the best preserved Romanesque-Gothic town in Europe.

After a morning walk on the beach and a hearty breakfast, we sat in our carriage and typed in the navigation – Pocitelj, our next destination.
I’ve never travelled through this part of Herzegovina and we drove there by fantastic Croatian roads. Not only that Croats built the highway but they are also expanding the Adriatic highway from two to four lanes. At the border crossing we didn’t wait long and after two hours we reached the medieval city of Počitelj, the Municipality of Čapljina. This ancient fortress consisted of the mosque, clock tower, Turkish bath, hammam and Gavrankapetanovic’s house and seems completely unreal.
With a little shine and a good advertisement it could attract a far greater number of tourists.
Through Neretva valley, the beautiful green colour river of the Adriatic basin, we continued 25 km towards the north, to the Town of Mostar. The city was named after the bridge keepers and is considered to be one of the most beautiful towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina. In the centre stands the Old Bridge, destroyed during the war in former Yugoslavia, but it was rebuilt a few years later. Together with the old town the Old bridge is in the list of UNESCO World Heritage. Foreign tourists are everywhere and we encountered at the moment when one of the brave Mostar man performed jump into the river. I recorded him by the camera.
The bridge is circled with oriental restaurants and besides grilled meat they are offering mediterranean specialties. Since I like to try new dishes, my choice was Neretva eel. This river animal which resembles a snake, marinated and grilled, had a taste of little harder and greasier fish meat. My husband took the old good kebabs and Travnik cheese as appetizers. Great service, good food and reasonable prices, I warmly recommend the restaurant Hindin Han to other travelers.
After the lunch we hit the road to home and on the roadside we bought seasonal fruit, peaches and grapes. The path led us through the valley of Jablanica, widely known for its roasted lamb, but we will try it on some other occasion…
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