Hunting Tigers in Rajasthan, India - "Shh," whispers our safari guide

“Shh,” whispers our safari guide, pressing a gloved finger to his lips.

He needn’t have bothered. Shivering in the open-top jeep in the final hour of daylight, our group already huddles in silence. This is our third trip, possibly our fourth, but this time we are closer. We’ve seen tracks, an event in itself, and now the whole jungle is quiet. Except for a deep-throated shriek from a monkey overlooking the exposed lake.

A shadow moves through the six-foot high grass and everyone watches.

This glimpse may be one of the last opportunities we’ll have. Since 1900, tiger numbers have fallen by 95% to only 4000 across the globe, as authorities clear land for business and poachers supply the Chinese Medicine market.

Ranthambore Park, around 400km from Delhi, is one of the few places left where tigers roam. India forbids poaching, but the lure of such profitable work is difficult to resist. Charities hope that tourism can offer a sustainable alternative by making sure that tigers are worth more alive than dead.

Once in Sawai Madhopur, the nearby village, finding a safari guide is easy. Trips set off at dawn and dusk, the exact numbers limited by the park. With the tiger population so scarce, you may need to spend a few days here in order to see one.

Insider travel tip:
Choose a small vehicle; they can reach parts of the park that the larger buses can’t, plus you’ll get a better view.

As for my journey? We watched and we waited as the shadows grew larger. Suddenly the jungle exploded. Herons and kingfishers flew into the air as deer bolted from the lake. An adolescent tiger burst from the golden grass. I reached down to change cameras and almost let out a scream.

There, right there, beside the jeep, an adult tiger was watching me.

Written and contributed by Abigail King
www.insidethetravellab.com